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Distaghil Sar

Coordinates: 36°19′33″N 75°11′18″E / 36.32583°N 75.18833°E / 36.32583; 75.18833
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Disteghil Sar
Disteghil Sar seen from space
Highest point
Elevation7,885 m (25,869 ft)[1]
Ranked 19th
Prominence2,525 m (8,284 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates36°19′33″N 75°11′18″E / 36.32583°N 75.18833°E / 36.32583; 75.18833[1]
Naming
Native nameدستاغل سر
Geography
Disteghil Sar is located in Pakistan
Disteghil Sar
Disteghil Sar
Pakistan
Disteghil Sar is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Disteghil Sar
Disteghil Sar
Disteghil Sar
(Gilgit Baltistan)
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
Diran
45
Diran
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Malubiting
Malubiting
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Batura III
Batura III
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Pakistan
LocationNazimabad Shishkat, Gilgit-Baltistan region, Pakistan
Parent rangeHispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent9 June 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart of an Austrian team
Easiest routeGlacier/snow/ice climb
Distaghil Sar
Simplified Chinese迪斯特吉峰
Transcriptions

Disteghil Sar or Distaghil Sar (Urdu: دستاغل سر) is the highest mountain in the [Baltin Bar Nallah|Baltin Bar Nallah Shishkat Hunza]], part of the Karakoram mountain range in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the 19th-highest mountain on Earth, the 7th-highest in Pakistan, and the first of the high peaks after Shishapangma to be the tallest independent summit of its own subrange. Disteghil sar is a Wakhi language word suggested by the Wakhi people of [2] meaning "above the inner ranch." The mountain has a 3-kilometre-long (1.9 mi) top ridge above 7,400 meters elevation, with three distinct summits: Northwest, 7885 m; Central, 7760 m; and Southeast, 7696m or 7535m.

Climbing history

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The first attempt to climb Distaghil Sar was made in 1957 by an English expedition led by Alf Gregory. That team attempted to climb the mountain from the south and the west, they reached 21,300 feet (6,500 m) but were defeated by bad weather.[3][4] Unfavourable weather also foiled a 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge led by Raymond Lambert.[5]

The first successful ascent was made in 1960 by Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart [de] who were part of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan. The expedition climbed the western part of the south face and continued over the southwest ridge to reach the highest summit on 9th June.[6][5]

The eastern summit is independent of the main, western, summit and about 100m lower; it was first climbed over the east face in 1980 by a Polish expedition which included Tadeusz Piotrowski. All participants of the expedition reached the summit.[7] It was reascended in 1983.

It was more than 20 years before a second successful ascent of the highest, western summit. The Himalayan Index lists another ascent of the peak in 1980 and a Spanish team made an ascent in 1982 by following a route close to the one taken in 1960.[8]

Two attempts over the daunting north face, in 1988 and 1998,[9] were unsuccessful.

An attempt on the north ridge in 2008 was abandoned soon after the party arrived because dramatic changes to the terrain, which had occurred over the previous ten years or so, had resulted in conditions becoming extremely dangerous.[10][11]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-27.
  2. ^ "Hispar area expeditions". echidna.rutgers.edu. Archived from the original on 27 April 2008. Retrieved 15 January 2022.
  3. ^ Davis, Dennis (1958). "Disteghil Sar, 1957". Himalayan Journal. #21: 108–116. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  4. ^ "Disteghil Sar 1957". MEF – Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 13 June 2024.
  5. ^ a b Stärker, Günther (1960). "Disteghil Sar, 1960". Himalayan Journal. #22: 120–133. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  6. ^ Stefan, Wolfgang (1961). "Disteghil Sar, 25,868 feet - The account of the Austrian Karakorum Expedition 1960" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #66 (302): 1–8. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  7. ^ Kurczab, Janusz (13 July 2010). "The history of Polish climbing – Karakorum. Cz.I (1969-1980)". wspinanie.pl. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  8. ^ Prunés, Joaquim (1983). "Asia, Pakistan, Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent". American Alpine Journal. #25 (57): 280. ISBN 0930410211. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 11 June 2024.
  9. ^ "1998 British Distaghil Sar N Face". MEF – Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 13 June 2024.
  10. ^ "UK-Canadian Distaghil Sar 2008". MEF – Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 13 June 2024.
  11. ^ Normand, Bruce (2009). "Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Disteghil, Sar, Attempt". American Alpine Journal. #51 (83): 272–273. ISBN 978-1933056098. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 13 June 2024.

Sources

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